St. Lucia, Lesser Antilles

ISLAND MAP - http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/sl/slmap.shtml

MAP OF CASTRIES - http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/sl/csmap.shtml

OFFICIAL WEBSITE - http://www.stlucianow.ca/?src=orgRedirection


St. Lucia is known for its lush and beautiful rainforest interior and natural delights. Most ships will dock in Castries, which is the capital. There are two different piers where your ship could dock – Pointe Seraphine (north pier) and La Place Carenage (south pier). They are right across the bay from each other. There is some shopping in Castries, but it is a bit of a walk to get there and not the caliber of shopping that you can find on other islands. There is a large duty-free complex as part of the Pointe Seraphine cruise terminal where you can hunt for crafts and souvenirs.

A visit to St. Lucia would not be complete without heading down the coast to the Soufrière area, where you will find most of the island’s natural attractions. The drive down the coast takes a little over an hour and the roads are often steep and twisty, so if you are prone to motion sickness, you may want to stop periodically to have a break or take medication/ginger in advance. You can also arrange a tour that will take you down the coast by boat so you don’t have to deal with the roads.

If you travel anywhere by cab, some drivers will try to convince you not to go to a certain spot and tell you that they have a much better place. They may have arrangements with resorts where they will get a referral fee if they take someone there. Just be aware of this technique and, if you are set on going somewhere, be firm and insist that they take you where you want to go.

Crime is on the rise in the Caribbean and St. Lucia is experiencing this unfortunate element as well. Common sense practices apply here, as on other islands. Be aware of your surrounding, don’t wander around alone or in less populated areas, leave your jewelry on the ship, and take only the cash you will need for the day. Expensive cameras are always a draw for thieves, as well. They would be fine on an organized tour, but I would not wander around with the camera in town or at the beaches. I am not trying to scare or discourage visitors with these warnings as we have been to St. Lucia several times and have never encountered one problem. It is one of our favorite islands!!

NOTE:  A hurricane in the fall of 2010 had a major impact on the infrastructure in St. Lucia.  There were landslides and some roads washed out as well as damage to many homes on the island.  Things are starting to get back to normal on the island and main access roads have been repaired so you should not have much to worry about as most tour operations will avoid areas where problems still exist!

ATTRACTIONS/SIGHTS

The Pitons – St. Lucia is best known for the world-famous Pitons located near Soufrière on the southwest coast of the island. The twin peaks were formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Gros Piton measures 2,619 ft high and Petit Piton comes in at 2,461 ft. If you are particularly energetic, you can hike up Gros Piton, but be prepared for a long and strenuous hike. There will be a fee for park access and for a guide to accompany you on your hike. Jalousie Plantation is located between the Pitons (see more info below). The snorkeling is great in the waters at the base of Petit Piton.

Sulphur Springs Drive-in Volcano – also located near Soufrière, it is claimed to be the only ‘drive-in’ volcano in the world. You can actually drive into the crater created by a volcanic eruption thought to have occurred nearly 40,000 years ago. It is a dormant volcano and the main activity these days is the bubbling ‘muddy’ water in the crater area. The sulphur (rotten egg) smell can be particularly strong at times…so be prepared. On the plus side, it is said that breathing in the air helps with sinus problems. It is an interesting sight to see….and smell☺

Warm waterfall/hot mineral pool – this is one of my favorite stops on the island. It contains a small waterfall and hot mineral pool reached by a short hike in the rainforest. The waterfall is warm and fed by both cold mountain water and hot volcanic water and makes for a delightful experience as you can swim in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall. An even more enjoyable soak can be found a few feet away in the hot mineral pool aka “fountain of youth”. The minerals in the water and the heat combine to make you feel years younger. Your muscles and joints feel amazingly supple and your skin feels baby soft!! Note: the minerals in the water can fade bright colors in your swimsuit so wear something that you won’t be concerned about fading!!

Diamond Botanical Gardens - http://www.diamondstlucia.com/ - tour these beautiful gardens and learn about the local plants and flowers. There is a lovely waterfall here as well, but it is quite chilly so you won’t likely want to swim here. Outside of the gardens are some local snack wagons. Check out Big Mama’s stand and enjoy local treats like fish cakes, Johnny cakes and her stupendous BBQ chicken!!

Pigeon Island National Park – located to the north of Castries, Pigeon Island is full of history and activities for both children and adults. Open daily 9am – 5pm. The entrance fee is $5pp. The island is connected to the mainland by a causeway so you don’t have to take a boat to get there. You can hike to the top of one of its peaks and enjoy the panoramic view. At the top of the smaller peak is Fort Rodney and your view includes the island of Martinique off in the distance. Signal Hill is the taller peak is a more strenuous climb. There is a small beach, a restaurant and an interpretation center/museum in the Park.

EXCURSION TOURS & ACTIVITIES

Aerial Tram Tours – see Rainforest Aerial Trams under “Tour Guides/Companies”. They also offer a zipline tour.

ATV Tours - http://www.atvstlucia.com/ or http://www.islandatvtours.com/

Bicycle Tours - http://www.bikestlucia.com/ - offers trail rides from novice to advanced trails in the jungle/rainforest at Anse Mamin, near Soufrière.

Diving/snorkeling – http://www.divefairhelen.com/ – offers scuba, snorkel and kayak tours.

Golf - You can arrange your own golf excursion or check the Serenity Tours website (see info under “Tour Guides/Companies”) as they offer a golf tour package as well.

St. Lucia Golf Resort and Country Club – http://www.stluciagolf.com/ - 18 holes - located in the Gros Islet area to the north of Castries.

Sandals Regency La Toc Golf Resort & Spa – http://www.sandals.com/main/lucia/lu-home.cfm - 9 holes - it is about a 15 minute cab ride, to the southwest, from the pier. Visitors have commented that this is the place to go for golf, but not the beach. The surf is often very choppy and the beach at the Sandals Grande is better for sunning and swimming.

Helicopter Tours - http://www.stluciahelicopters.com/

Horseback Riding – there are several outfits on St. Lucia. One of the best reviewed is Atlantic Shores which is located about an hour’s drive down the coast, near Soufrière (758 454 8668 or 758 484 9769). Trim’s National Riding Academy is located nearer to Castries in Cas-en-Bas (phone 758 450 8273 or 758 450 0637 (24 hr)). Both get good reviews from past visitors. Neither company currently has a website so contact them by phone to get pricing and tour options.

Kayak tours – http://www.divefairhelen.com/ and http://www.islandatvtours.com/ both offer kayak tours.

Whale Watching Tours – http://www.hackshaws.com/ or http://www.captmikes.com/

Zipline/canopy tours – see Palm Services Treetop Canopy Tour and Adventure Course under “Tour Guides/Companies” below.

BEACHES
Having been to St. Lucia several times, I would say that this is not really one of the top beach stops for those who love Caribbean beaches. Since St. Lucia is a volcanic island, the sand on the beaches is not your typical soft, white sand. Some spots have brought in the sand to satisfy the tourist trade. All beaches on St. Lucia are public and free to access and public property runs up to the ‘high-water’ mark. As on other islands, there are often resorts along the beaches but be aware that you cannot use their loungers or facilities unless you buy a day pass. If you choose to take a cab to the beach, negotiate with your cab driver in advance for the fare and only pay on your return to the pier. Below, I have listed the beaches most often mentioned on the discussion boards:

Anse des Pitons aka ‘Jalousie Beach’ – see info under “Resort Day Passes” below.

Reduit Beach – one of the most popular beaches on the island, it is located about a 15-20 minute ride from the pier, depending on traffic. It is also sometimes referred to as Rodney Bay, which is the name of the resort area where it is located. Cab fare is estimated at about $25 each way for 4 people or a full van will run around $6pp each way. The beach is quite popular with cruisers so is often crowded, especially if there are several ships in port. There are several bars, restaurants, jet-ski rentals and banana boat rides, etc. Some reviewers have mentioned that the beach can be dirty at times, but we did not see any of that when we were there. Two lounge chairs and an umbrella will cost you about $15. There are lots of vendors on the beach so if that bothers you, I would recommend another stop. Spinnaker’s Restaurant, on the beach, gets good reviews if you want to grab something to eat.

Malabar Beach aka Rendezvous Beach – located to the north of Castries near the small airplane airport (you can see the planes landing from the pier area). It is one of the closer beaches to the pier and takes about 5-7 minute by cab. Cab fare should cost around $10 each way – total for the cab, not per person. You can also buy a day pass for the Rendezvous Resort located at this beach (see info under “Resort Day Passes” below).

Choc Beach – is another beach located close to the pier. It is about a 10 minute ride from Castries and will cost about $12 each way for a cab (total cost). You can also catch a local bus/van and pay between $1- $1.50 each way (see Local Bus info below). Choc is the beach that locals frequent on the weekends and it is very quiet throughout the week. There is only one beach bar (The Wharf) and not a lot of other amenities. The Wharf has some lounge chairs for rent ($10 for 2) but no umbrellas. You can pull your chair under a palm for shade. There have been some rumblings about safety on this beach but I have searched and can’t find any details on specific incidents. Many visitors have been there and had no problems, but it could be that a few have run into issues.

LOCAL BUS - If you are not intimidated by a little adventure, you can take a local bus (van) to Choc Beach and save a good amount of money as fares generally run around a couple of dollars, depending on your destination.  From Pointe Seraphine, you will need to walk for about 5-7 minutes to find the bus stand next to the local electric company (LUCELEC). When you see a bus with the yellow sticker ‘Route 1A’, you will need to flag it down and let the driver know that you want to go to Choc Beach. If you opt to go to Reduit, the cost will be slightly higher. The bus stop at Choc is directly across from The Wharf and you can flag down a bus/van to return to port.

Pigeon Island – see info under “Attractions/Sights” above

Anse Cochon – this spot is known as one of the best snorkel spots on the island. You can snorkel right off the beach. Anse Cochon is located about ¾ of the way down the coast towards Soufrière. You can take a cab there, but your best bet is likely to visit the beach as part of a tour (see options under “Tour Guides/Companies” below) or arrange a day pass with Ti Kaye Resort (see info under “Resort Day Passes”) which is located on this beach.

RESORT DAY PASSES

Sandals Resorts – there are three, adult only, Sandals resorts on the island however, the two I have listed are the most popular for day passes. They are:

Sandals Grande St. Lucian – located north of Castries, near Pigeon Island. A day pass usually runs around $100-$110 for 10am-6pm access. To get there by cab will take between 20-25 minutes and cost around $20 one way (total cab, not per person). According to past visitors, this resort appears to have the best beach of the three Sandals properties. You don’t have to book a day pass in advance, you can get a pass at the front desk on arrival.

Sandals Regency La Toc Golf Resort & Spa – http://www.sandals.com/main/lucia/lu-home.cfm - This resort is located 1.5 miles west of Castries and is about a 15 minute cab ride from the pier, due to traffic. Visitors have commented that this is the place to go for golf but not the beach. The surf is often very choppy and the beach at the Sandals Grande is better for sunning and swimming.

Ti Kaye Village - http://www.tikaye.com/dive-rates.php - this family resort is located at Anse Cochon (one of the best snorkel spots) about ¾ of the way down to Soufrière on the west coast. The day pass for Ti Kaye Village runs about $75pp for the day and includes boat transportation to and from the pier, lunch, 2 soft drinks/juice, use of their facilities and non-motorized water sports, as well as snorkel gear rental for the day. Be aware that if you go by car, the drive is about 45 minutes and the driveway into the resort is about one mile of very rough road.

Rendezvous Resort - http://www.theromanticholiday.com/Content/16.htm - this adult only boutique hotel/resort is located on Malabar Beach (aka Rendezvous Beach) about a 5-7 minute drive from the pier. Rendezvous offers a couple of different half-day passes. Their published rates are a ½ day pass from 8am-12pm which costs $40pp and includes drinks and use of the facilities and non-motorized water sports, but no lunch. There is another ½ day pass from 12pm – 6pm which costs $50 and includes lunch, drinks and use of the facilities and non-motorized water sports. I have seen reviews from people who were there from 10am-3pm so there may be some flexibility with the time frames, but you should clarify all of those details with the resort when you contact them. You should arrange for your day pass in advance. Serenity Tours also offers a package to Rendezvous as well.

Rex St. Lucian Resort – http://www.rexresorts.com/_caribbean/_stlucia/_stlucian/index.html - located on Reduit Beach, to the north of Castries. A day pass costs $59pp but make your arrangements in advance as they are not available all of the time.

Bay Gardens Beach Resort & Spa – http://www.baygardensbeachresort.com/ – also located on Reduit Beach. A day pass costs $50pp and includes a BBQ lunch and limited bar drinks.

Jalousie Beach Plantation - http://www.thejalousieplantation.com/  This resort is located at the south end of the island, past the town of Soufrière. The resort has brought in sand for the beach so it is definitely more appealing than some of the others. It takes a little over an hour to get there by cab, around 30 minutes by boat. A day pass costs $50pp adult ($35 for children) for use of amenities (except the pool), a lounger and $25 towards your food purchase. Your best bet for this spot is to visit as part of a tour so that you can also see some of the sights around Soufrière (ie: warm waterfall, drive-in volcano). We have been to Jalousie on 4 different occasions, but have never bought a day pass as you can access the beach for free. The resort no longer allows tour guides to pass through their resort to get to the beach so most tour operators have arranged for water taxis from the pier in Soufrière over to Jalousie Beach.

TOUR GUIDES/COMPANIES

The following guides are the most popular and generally get great reviews from their clients. You should arrange for a tour in advance of your stop in St. Lucia. There are, obviously, other guides that you can hire but I am listing the ones that receive the most positive feedback on the discussion boards:

Herod Stanislas – http://herodsislandtours.com/ - we have personally toured with Herod on four different occasions and I cannot say enough about how fantastic he is. He is professional, knowledgeable, low-key and takes such good care of his guests! He offers an Island Delights tour that takes you to the most popular stops in the south of the island and he also has a Land and Sea tour that visits those same sights, but part of the tour is by boat and also includes lunch. Herod prefers smaller groups so he can give more personal service. At last visit, he charged $50pp for the Island Delights tour and $70pp for the Land and Sea tour. We always pay him more as he provides such phenomenal value for the price.  Lately, some have had problems contacting him through his website so you can also reach him by email him at herodtours@gmail.com.

Cosol Tours – http://www.cosol-tours.com/ - Cosol operates a large tour business on St. Lucia. He is very popular with visitors and generally gets good reviews for his operation. The negative reviews are usually because people expected to tour with Cosol, personally, and did not except the sheer size of the tour group as all of the vans travel together. Cosol hires additional cab drivers for the day, as needed, so your experience is impacted by which driver you get and how many ships are in port. As with other tours, he will take you to the most popular stops in the south of the island.

Serenity Tours – http://www.serenitytvl.com/ - operated by a husband and wife team, John and Caroline, this tour operation consistently gets great reviews from their customers. They offer various land tours and also a zipline tour that gets you to the zipline location before the cruise tour crowds! Some of their tours also include day passes to several resorts mentioned above, as well as Pigeon Island. Visit their website or call 1-866-766-0794.

Palm Services Treetop Canopy Tour and Adventure Course - http://www.adventuretoursstlucia.com/ultimate_treetop_adventure.html  - offers a range of activities including the popular zip line course. They also offer cycling, hiking, and kayaking excursions. To appeal to younger families, Palm also offers a "kiddie challenge" course with mini-zip lines for children. This operation is located in the south-center of the island at Dennery. It is a bit of a ride to get there, but well worth it. Palm also contracts to various cruise lines for their excursions so it is better to arrange this tour on your own with a local tour company so that you can get there ahead of the ship’s tours and crowds. Serenity Tours gets great reviews for their zipline package (see details under ‘Serenity Tours’ above).

Rainforest Aerial Trams – http://www.rainforestrams.com/stluciaintro.html
Located near Castries, this operation is open every day except Monday from October until April. If you plan to visit between May and September, you should contact the company to get details as they are open 4 days a week during that time period. The aerial trams take you through the rainforest in an open-air gondola. They also offer some bird watching hikes for the less adventurous. The popular Tranopy (tram and canopy) tour costs $85pp and the Adrenaline Zip Line costs $69pp. Go to the website and click on ‘Book Now’ to see a full list of tour pricings. You will need to scroll through the list to find the St. Lucia options. There are minimum age limits on some tours. This operation is also used by cruise line excursions so you should get there early to avoid the crowds.

The following guides offer a variety of tours and, on a private tour, can customize your tour to include specific stops that you select. Some also offer tours that include day passes to various resorts on the island. All come with excellent reviews from past customers.

Spencer Ambrose - http://www.spencerambrose.com/

Bernard’s Island Tours - http://www.stluciataximan.com/default.asp?page=home

Frank’s Tours - http://www.stluciafrank.com/

This unique island is a natural wonder and not to be missed!!

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is both a popular port of call on Caribbean cruises and also the main departure port for most southern itineraries. Puerto Rico is officially a Commonwealth and is a self-governing territory of the US. Most people you will encounter will speak English as well as Spanish. Drivers tend to be a bit crazy on this island so renting a car is not for the faint of heart! Get a good map and keep your eyes wide open. Others have rented cars and lived to tell the story ☺

If you are departing on a cruise from San Juan, most people will stay at a hotel in Condado, Isla Verde or Old San Juan (OSJ) due to their proximity to the piers. There are two main cruise piers in San Juan: the Old San Juan pier and the Pan American pier. Most ships stopping for the day in San Juan will port at the Old San Juan pier. Most ships beginning a cruise in San Juan will depart from the Pan Am pier however Carnival cruises usually leave from OSJ Pier 4. If you tell your cab driver which ship you are on, they will generally know which pier you need to be at.

TIP: If you are flying in for a cruise or need to wait for a flight out after a cruise, you can drop your luggage at Restaurant Barrachina (104 Calle Fortaleza) in OSJ and they will store it for you at no cost.

MAP
Map of Puerto Rico and map of Old San Juan – http://www.travelmaps.com/

TAXI CABS

All cab fares are regulated by the government and broken down into zones. You pay a flat fee from one zone to another, plus $1 for each piece of luggage. For more information on the various zones and fares, click on: http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/getting-around-by-taxi/

BUS INFO

Local buses are a very cheap alternative to get between downtown areas and Old San Juan.  Fares run between $0.50 - $0.75 each way. Schedules are not always firm so some flexibility is required. Route B-21 runs from Condado to OSJ. Route A-5 runs from Isla Verde to OSJ.  The bus is not a good option from the airport though.

ATTRACTIONS/SIGHTS

I have provided information on some of the more popular attractions and sights below. If you want to see a very detailed summary of all of the sights, go to: http://www.topuertorico.org/city/sanjuan.shtml

OLD SAN JUAN (OSJ)

This is the heart of the action for most visitors and is full of history and culture. You will find two fortresses and the Parliament House as well as tons of hotels, shops and restaurants. If you are in relatively good physical shape, you can walk to most locations in OSJ.

El Morro Fortress - $3 entrance fee or $5 for access to both El Morro and San Cristobal Fortresses. Valid for 24 hours. Open 9am – 6pm. This is the most well known of the two fortresses. Don’t miss the Paseo de la Princesa boardwalk path along the city wall. It is a beautiful walk to or from the Fortress and not to be missed. You can reach the path by walking to the left from the cruise ship pier, along Calle Marina, past the Plaza de Armas & La Casita (yellow building) and past the fountain where you will find the beginning of the boardwalk.

San Cristobal Fortress – $3 entrance fee or $5 for access to both El Morro and San Cristobal Fortresses. Valid for 24 hours. Open 9am – 6pm. This is the largest of the two fortresses and can be reached by walking up the hill and to the right from the pier area.

Restaurant Barrachina - http://www.barrachina.com/ - Located at 104 Forteleza in OSJ, Barrachina’s claim to fame is that they are the birthplace of the original Pina Colada. This restaurant will hold your bags for you, at no charge, while you are waiting for a flight or cruise to depart. If you are staying around OSJ, they also have a flamenco show on Friday and Saturday evenings at 8pm. Just ask to be seated in the show area!

Walking tour - If you are interested in a walking tour of Old San Juan, check out: www.frommers.com/destinations/sanjuan/0323010008.html

Shopping options - You can find vendors selling knock-off purses down along the waterfront. The popular Coach outlet is located at 150 Calle Cristo. You can find many local artisans selling their wares at Plaza Arturo Somohano located about a block behind the Sheraton Old San Juan.

OSJ FREE TROLLEY
There is a free trolley that travels around Old San Juan and makes regular stops at Covadonga, La Pultilla, Plaza de Armas and both forts. There are three different routes. You can get a map from the information kiosk near Pier 1. The trolley moves slowly due to traffic and, if speed is what you want, you would be faster on foot. There is a trolley stop right at the corner of the waterfront road and Corretjer St (the street going up to the left of Pier 4 and the second street up to the right from pier 3) but everyone from the ship will try to get on at that stop. If you walk a few blocks to the left of the pier along Calle Marina (parallel to the waterfront), there is a trolley stop to the left of the small yellow "Casita" building (Tourist Info Centre). Just follow the road to the left and look for the trolley stop marker beside the trucks that sell food/drinks at the plaza.

EL YUNQUE RAINFOREST – http://www.elyunque.com/ - located about an hour's drive from the pier, the park's hours of operation don’t appear to be fixed.  They say that they open ‘early’ and you cannot stay past 6pm. Entrance to the park is free, but if you stop at the Visitor’s Center, there is a fee of $3. You can pay $5pp for a guide from the Visitor’s Center. The best way to really enjoy the rainforest is to find a group tour or rent a car. Taxis are not permitted to enter the rainforest. Taxis must drop their passengers at the Visitor’s Centre, which is a good distance from the good hiking trails and scenic falls.

There are lots of hiking trails to choose from in the rainforest. You can select one based on your time frames and fitness level. Big Tree Trail is one of the more popular trails and a 20 minute hike will get you to La Mina Falls where you can enjoy a refreshing swim. Since it is very popular with large ship’s tours, it is best to hit this trail early to avoid the crowds. To get to the Mount Britton trail, drive on PR191 and park on side road 930 at km 13 marker. If you want to hike all the way to the mountain peak, aim to hit the peak by noon as often clouds roll in and the panoramic view may disappear in the afternoon. The hike to the peak appears to take between 1.5 and 2 hours. For a shorter option, if you hike about 20 minutes along Mount Britton Trail, you will reach the Mount Britton Observation Tower.  Juan Diego Creek is a less well-known spot so doesn't have much of a crowd.  If you hike about 1/8th of a mile along the creek (not a trail...more like a path), there are three different waterfalls to see.  You may also want to check out the 1575 foot Yokahu Observation Tower at km 8.8 on PR191.

LUQUILLO BEACH – This is a beach area located not far from El Yunque. A great spot for some beach time after touring the rainforest. Parking $4. Bathroom access $1 adult/ $0.50 children. There are actually four different beach sections in Luquillo:

1. "La Pared" (The Wall) is where the surfers hang out. Lots of action and heavy waves.
2. "Costa Azul" (Blue Coast) in front of the 3 condominiums is quiet with lots of 'snowbirds'.
3. "El Balneario El Monserrate" has lots of gorgeous palm trees and delightfully calm water that is perfect for young ones.
4. “Kiosk Beach” aka Jet Ski Beach located behind the 60 local food kiosks. Lots of people and jet ski traffic and can be a bit dirty.

PLAZA LAS AMERICAS – http://www.plazalasamericas.com/
This is a large, modern three-story mall. Open 9am – 9pm weekdays and Saturdays, 11am – 7pm on Sundays and contains many well known stores. The mall can be reached easily by cab or bus. From the Condado area, take bus B12. The bus stops running around 9pm and the fare is $0.75.  Have the exact change.

BACARDI RUM FACTORY TOUR – You can arrange this tour through the ship and pay a premium or you can do it on your own for very little money. Take the ferry from near the OSJ pier across the bay to Catano for $1 pp each way. On arrival, you can catch a cab for the short ride to the Bacardi Rum Factory which will cost around $2pp each way if there are a group of people heading there. You can get your free tour ticket in the gift shop area, along with your coupon for 2 free drinks, and then wait for the start of the next tour. You do not tour the actual distillery. The tour includes a movie of the company’s history, a mock up of the distillery, a chance to smell some of the different rums they make and a demonstration on how to make some rum drinks. The tour ends in the gift shop where you are entitled to 2 free rum drinks. Food for thought: Cruisers who did this tour through the ship say that it is overpriced and not worth the cost that the cruise lines charge.

CAMUY CAVES (Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy) – For more info, see http://www.gotopuertorico.com/caving-puerto-rico.php. The caves are only open Wednesday through Sunday from 8am to 4pm, or until they reach park capacity. It appears that the park only allows a certain number of visitors per day, so it is best to get there early. Entrance fees are $12 for adults and $7 for children (ages 2 – 12). Parking will cost you $3pp. There is generally a wait until your number is called to start your tour so patience is a virtue : - )

BIOLUMINESCENT BAY TOURS – These very unique tours are done at night as that is the prime time to experience the natural phenomenon of microscopic plankton that glow when the water is disturbed. The two most popular locations for this excursion are Fajardo or Vieques Island and you can tour either by boat or by kayak.  I have posted the most popular tour operations for each location below. You can also book a tour through the cruise ship, but it will definitely cost you more. This tour is best done around a new moon when there is not a lot of moonlight and it is easier to see the glow from the plankton. Check the moon calendar to see whether the moon phases match well with your vacation time in Puerto Rico : http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/biobay-and-moon/ . Make sure you take bug spray as bugs can sometimes be an issue!!

La Laguna Grande - located in Fajardo, to the north-east of San Juan.  Two well-reviewed tour operators are: http://www.bioislandpr.com/ or http://www.kayakingpuertorico.com/ . The pros are that this location is closer to San Juan, less costly than Vieques and the tour takes about 2 hours. On the con side, you do not get the chance to swim with the plankton and visitors who have taken both tours say that Mosquito Bay has way more organisms to be seen.

Mosquito Bay - located on the island of Vieques, off the coast of PR. You can get detailed information here: http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/eastwind-vieques-biobay/  and then book here: http://www.eastwindcats.com/pages/powercat_excursion1.html . You will need to scroll down the page to get to the Bio-Bay excursion. The pros of this tour are that you can enjoy a swim among the plankton and that there is less light pollution which enhances the experience even more. The con is that travel time is longer from San Juan and, therefore, requires more of a time commitment.

SEGWAY TOURS - http://www.segwaytourspr.com/ - Tour OSJ on a segway.

TOUR GUIDES
The following guides get excellent reviews on the discussion boards.  They both offer a wide variety of tours:

Albert Aguirre – contact at surfcabs@yahoo.com or (787) 317-6907. To get the $50 pp rate, Albert requires a minimum of 6 people. If you don’t have that number, he will approach other cruise passengers until he gets additional passengers for his tour.

Countryside Tours (Victor Balbin) - http://www.countrysidetourspr.com/

Experience the history and culture of this beautiful island!!

Antigua

Antigua is a tremendously beautiful island with the white sand beaches and turquoise waters that the Caribbean is known for. They claim that the island has 365 beaches – one for every day of the year.

Antigua has been getting a bad reputation of late as crime is up on the island and the number of murders on the island has increased in the past few years. Last year, several Carnival passengers were arrested during an altercation with police. Recently, Star Clippers and Carnival Victory have both removed Antigua from their itineraries.

We have visited this island several times and it is one of our favorite stops. We always exercise caution, no matter what island we are on and this holds true for Antigua. Stay on the main streets where there are lots of people and avoid isolated areas both in, and out of, town; don’t wear expensive jewelry/watches or flash lots of cash around and always be aware of your surroundings.

Traffic in St. John’s is very slow so, no matter where you are going, it takes some time to get out of town. The island roads can also be very bumpy!

MAPS

Island map - http://www.antigua-barbuda.org/Agmap.htm

St. John’s map - http://www.antiguanice.com/v2/printmap.php?print=stj

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA WEBSITE - http://www.antigua-barbuda.org/

TAXI CABS
For Government regulated taxi fares see:  http://www.antiguanice.com/v2/documents/Taxi%20and%20tour%20fares%20-%20ABTB%20final.pdf

Regulated cab fares are based on 4 passengers. The more people are in the cab, the cheaper the fare. Although regulated fares are listed for most destinations in this post, there is some room to negotiate and you may be able to get a better deal if you have more then 4 passengers…or if you have excellent negotiating skills!!

PUBLIC BUSES
This island has an excellent public transportation system. On exiting the pier area, walk ahead two blocks and then turn right onto Market Street. It is about a 5 minute walk down to the bus station. The bus station is on your right across from the public market. There is a small shed at the entrance and, if you tell the lady where you want to go, she will tell you which bus to take. The buses are small to medium sized vans that generally take up to 15 people and will stop at just about any beach or main attraction on the island. The cost usually runs between $1.50 and $2.00pp each way. Pay the driver before boarding.

NOTE: Drivers wait until the bus fills up before they leave the bus station, so you may have to wait for awhile before you get on your way. Cabs are always faster (if speed is important) but you can’t beat the cost savings of taking the bus. Ask the driver to let you know when you get to the beach that you want to go to.

To catch the return bus, simply go back to where the bus dropped you and wait for one to come along. You can wave it down but they will not stop if they are full. Another bus will come along, usually within 10-15 minutes. Later in the afternoon, the buses get quite full with locals heading home from work. For this reason, start heading back to the ship around 3pm or so to try and beat some of the congestion. Cabs will stop and tell you that the bus won’t be around for another hour so be aware that they are not telling you the truth and just want your fare.

Bus #22 is the bus that will take you to several fantastic beach stops: Jolly Beach is the first beach stop, then Valley Church Beach and Darkwood Beach after that.

SHOPPING
Sarah Fuller’s Pottery Stand - http://www.sarahfullerpottery.com/ - is mentioned often on the discussion boards and is located in Redcliffe Quay, which is a 5 min walk from the pier. Sarah creates pottery made with local clay adorned caribbean blue glazes.

Heritage Quay – located within easy walking distance of the pier, Heritage Quay is an open-air mall with many shops and restaurants.

Vendor’s Mall – located near Heritage Quay is a spot where vendors sell local crafts and souvenirs.

For a full list of shopping options, see: http://www.antiguanice.com/v2/thingstodo.php?cat=13

ATTRACTIONS/SIGHTS
Nelson’s Dockyard – http://www.antiguamuseums.org/nelsonsdockyard.htm
Located at English Harbour on the south coast of Antigua, the dockyard’s original purposes was to service Royal Navy Warship’s in the Caribbean. It was named Nelson’s Dockyard in 1951 in honour of Horatio Nelson. If you are interested in history, this is a must-see stop. Admission $5pp. Most island tours will stop here but, if you go on a ship’s excursion, you will only likely get about 40 minutes to wander around. From the pier, the drive will take 45 minutes to an hour as traffic in town is very slow. You can take a cab, or local bus, and take your time at the Dockyard. Regulated cab fare is $24US each way however, if your negotiating skills are strong, you may be able to negotiate an island tour for around $20US per person with a stop at the Dockyard, Shirley Heights and a beach stop as well. You may want to wait until the initial wave of passengers have disembarked so that you will have more bargaining power with the cabs that remain. The bus will cost you around $1.50pp. There is a bakery behind the museum sells pineapple turnovers that visitors rave about.

Shirley Heights – This is an area not far from the Dockyard with partially restored military fortifications. Its claim to fame is the incredible view overlooking English Harbour. A spectacular photo opportunity!

Dows Hill Interpretation Center – near Shirley Heights, the Center offers a multi-media presentation of the island’s history.

St. John’s Cathedral – located within walking distance of the pier between Long and Newgate Streets in downtown St. John’s.

Museum of Antigua & Barbuda - http://www.antiguamuseums.org/ - located on Long Street in St. John’s.

Antigua Rainforest Canopy Tour - http://www.antiguarainforest.com/
There are several tour options listed on the website under “Tours”. The most popular is the full canopy tour where you zipline 40 to 300 feet off the ground in Antigua’s rainforest canopy. This tour takes roughly an hour and a quarter to complete and includes an Indiana Jones-style suspension bridge, 9 zip-lines and a controlled 36-foot vertical descent. All visitors must go through a full safety briefing to learn all about the equipment and safety rules. The trip to the canopy location takes around 40 minutes. See website for maximum height and weight and other helpful details.

Sting Ray City – http://www.stingraycityantigua.com/
Swim with the sting rays off the coast near Seaton’s Village. You can take a cab to the location on your own or arrange a tour with Eli’s Eco Tours (see info under ‘Tours’ below). Regulated cab fare is $19US each way for 4 passengers.

Devil’s Bridge – is a natural limestone arch carved by the sea and is a popular stop on island tour’s for its dramatic arch and crashing waves. It is located on the north-eastern coast near Long Bay Beach.

BEACHES
The beaches on Antigua are some of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. All beaches are public and free via public access paths. Since resorts are usually on the beaches as well, you may need to look for an entrance that does not go through the resort. You can find a beach that will meet your personal criteria and I don’t think you can go wrong, no matter where you choose to spend your day. As on other islands, there are vendors patrolling most of the beaches. They will usually leave you alone after a polite “No, thank you”.

Below are a few of the most well-known beach stops. The first three options are all on the same bus route along the southwest coast:

Jolly Beach – access to this beach is free. The Jolly Beach Resort is located on this beach but if you want to use the resort’s loungers, facilities or access their pool, you will need to buy a day pass (see DAY PASS section below). Down the beach from the resort is Castaways Restaurant which rents loungers for $5 and umbrellas for $10. Regulated cab fare is $18US each way for 4 passengers or you can take the local bus (#22) for around $1.50 each way. The ride takes around 15 minutes. There are tons of shells on this beach for collectors.

Valley Church Beach – gets very good reviews. There are bathroom facilities and a beach bar called “The Nest”. Loungers $5 Umbrellas $10 and there are some palapas and trees for shade, if you get there early. There are ½ hour massages offered for $25. Regulated cab fare is $26US each way for 4 passengers or you can take the local bus (#22) for around $1.50 each way. The ride takes around 20 minutes. The bus will drop you at the end of a dirt road and you will see a sign for “The Nest”. Walk to the left from where the bus drops you and it is about a 5 minute walk to the beach. Most visitors rave about “The Nest’s” coconut shrimp but it is quite pricey at $16US for about 4 jumbo shrimp and a salad. Jetski rentals available for $40US for ½ hour or $80US for an hour. Watch out for the small burr’s that drop off the trees…very prickly and will hurt if you walk on them.

Darkwood Beach - is a quiet beach along the coastline, south of St. John’s. Perfect for those who want a quiet beach break – no loud music or tons of watersport activity going on. You can sit in the sun and enjoy the gorgeous view of the island of Montserrat off in the distance. There is on OK snorkel spot at the north end of the beach, but it is not the best snorkel spot on the island. Loungers $5. Umbrellas $3. Regulated cab fare is $26US each way for 4 passengers or you can take the local bus (#22) for around $1.50 each way.  We have personally been to this beach and it was one of our favorite beaches on that cruise.

The next three beaches are all along the same stretch of coastline on the well-developed northwest coast and are all within 10-15 minutes drive from the pier:

Dickenson Bay Beach – is a popular beach for visitors as it has many amenities and watersports available and is close to St John’s. Sandals Antigua Resort is located on this beach. There are beach bars, restaurants and vendors all along the beach. Snorkeling is decent at either end of the beach. Loungers $5 however I cannot confirm the price to rent an umbrella. The bus drops you quite a walk away from the beach so it is probably easiest to take a cab. Regulated cab fare is $12US each way for 4 passengers.

Runaway Bay – located near Dickenson Bay, Runaway Bay is nearly a mile of beautiful white sand beach and is conveniently located near St. John’s. It tends to be a quieter beach than Dickenson with fewer crowds. Regulated cab fare is $26US each way for 4 passengers. They have loungers and umbrellas available for rent.

Fort James Beach – located next to Runaway Bay on the northwest coast, this beach is the closest to the St. John’s pier and is a favorite with locals. It tends to be quiet and you can take the opportunity to explore Fort James located at one end. There is a restaurant and spot to rent loungers and umbrellas. Beach glass enthusiasts are said to find lots of treasures here. A cab will run you $12US each way for 4 passengers.

Half Moon Bay - located on the island’s southeast coast, is known as one of the island’s most beautiful beaches and is a National Park area. It is not a very developed beach and is a bit of a drive to get to so there aren’t a lot of amenities there. There is a small bar with facilities and some loungers to rent, but not much else to speak of. The surf is very rough at one end of the beach, but things generally are calmer at the other end where the snorkeling is said to be spectacular. If you want to get away from the crowds and just enjoy the peace and quiet, this could be the spot for you!

Long Bay Beach – located on the easternmost part of the island (on the opposite coast from St. John’s), Long Bay is a 30-45 minute cab ride, depending on traffic. Regulated cab fare is $26US each way for 4 passengers. It is not a very large beach and can be crowded as Grand Pineapple Beach resort is located here. There is a reef offshore that has some good snorkeling, but is a bit of a swim to get there. There is a restaurant with facilities that you can use if you buy food or a drink. It will cost you around $20 for 2 chairs and an umbrella for the day. The beach is located about 5 minutes from Devil’s Bridge, so get your cab to make a stop there to check out this unique offering.

RESORT DAY PASSES
If you are interested in enjoying the facilities for the day at one of the resorts on Antigua, below are several options. The pros to this approach are that you can spend the entire day at the resort, enjoy their amenities, meals, drinks, some watersports, etc and it is all included in the price. On the con side, you are limiting yourself to only one spot and day passes tend to be costly. Quite often, you can access the same exact beach and arrange to rent your own chairs/umbrellas from one of the beach vendors for a much lower cost. Some resorts will not book any day passes until within 30 days of the date of arrival as they need to gauge their room inventory and determine if they can accept additional day guests. Email the resort for details and to confirm current rates.

Jolly Beach Resort– this is considered the ‘budget’ option for an all-inclusive on this island. For day pass info, click on http://www.jollybeachresort.com/sites/S1/File/2009.21.08%20%20JBR%20Day%20Pass.pdf Most people select option #2 at $60 per person.

REX Hawksbill Beach Resort –  http://www.rexresorts.com/_caribbean/_antigua/index.html (the spaces are underscores).  This resort offers day passes $60 for 9am-5pm. $45 from 11am – 5pm. If you want a quiet and peaceful getaway without lots of crowds and loud music, this is the spot to go. The day pass includes lunch, drinks and access to non-motorized watersports. The resort has 4 gorgeous white sand beaches to choose from (one of which is a nudist beach). We took a cab to the resort but didn’t want a day pass. The guard let us onto the property as long as we agreed that we could not use their loungers, etc. We were pretty much the only people on the beach all morning and it was a delightful break from the crowds.

Sandals Grande Antigua – http://www.sandals.com/main/antigua/an-home.cfm
Sandals is located on Dickenson Bay Beach. This all-inclusive definitely falls into the ‘splurge’ category as a day pass will set you back $110.50pp for access from 10am-6pm. They do not have any reference to day passes on their website, but previous visitors have emailed the resort to get information. You can catch a cab to the resort and arrange for a day pass on site, but it is best to email the resort in advance to ensure that you won’t be turned away if they are full.

Grand Pineapple Beach Resort – http://www.grandpineapple.com/main/antigua/an-home.cfm
This resort is located on Long Bay Beach on the northeast coast about a half hour drive from St. John’s. Regulated cab fare is $26US each way for 4 passengers. A day pass costs $55pp for access from 9am – 5pm and includes breakfast. There is also a $45US option from 10:30am – 5pm without breakfast. Email the resort for more details and to confirm pricing.

TOUR OPERATORS
We are not cruisers who usually book any excursions through the cruise lines, unless it is something that we really want to do and it is only available through the cruise line. Some lines require the operators to offer their tours exclusively for ship’s excursions when a ship is in port. We find that it is much more cost-effective and we enjoy a much more intimate group size when we make our own arrangements. We have never run into any problems getting back to the ship on time. We only use well-recommended operators and since their livelihood is tied to their reviews, they are very conscientious to get their guests back to the pier on time.

Below are a few operators who receive great reviews on the discussion boards:

Paddles Antigua – http://www.antiguapaddles.com/index.html

Paddles offers a Kayak & Snorkel Eco Tour for $58US pp. We have personally been on this tour twice and it is well worth the cost. They pick you up at the pier and drive you about ½ hour to their location in Seatons. They offer two tours a day – one in the morning and one in the afternoon. The tour includes a kayak outing and you are also taken by speedboat to Bird Island (see photo on right below) where you wade into shore and take a hike to the look-off point above. There is a chance to snorkel at Bird Island as well. I wouldn’t say it is the best snorkel ever as there is a lot of seaweed and you have to swim out a bit to get to the rocky area where the fish and coral are. Still, snorkeling is always a fun time, in my opinion. Back at the clubhouse, they serve you a delicious punch and banana bread and, if you are lucky, you can get a photo with Sweet Pea, their parrot ‘mascot’! (below on left).

Eli’s Eco Tours – http://www.adventureantigua.com/
Eli offers a wide variety of tours on several different types of boats (see website for options and pricing). He gets great reviews from past visitors. Lunch is the “best barbecued chicken ever” (according to several reviews), a green salad, pasta salad, plantains and banana bread. The ‘Xtreme Circumnav’ tour is very expensive, but those who have been on this tour confirm that it is worth the splurge. It makes 5 stops including Hell’s Gate, Nelson’s Dockyard, Stingray City, and a snorkel at Pillar of Hercules.

Creole Cruises – http://www.creolecruisesantigua.com/
Offers several boat tours. They get excellent reviews for their Lobster Lunch Cruise at $120US pp, but all say it is well worth the splurge!! Check out their Facebook page as well.

Segway Antigua – http://www.segwayantigua.com/
There are several segway tours available. Their “Conquerors of the Fort” tour is very popular at $59US for 2 ¾ hr guided ride. Cab fare to their training centre will cost an additional $12. You can also find them on the pier, near the information booth.

Helicopter Tours - http://www.caribbeanhelicopters.com/
If you really want to splurge on a unique outing, you can take a helicopter tour to view the volcano in Montserrat. The cost is $240USpp for 45 minutes. There are also tour options to see the island of Antigua from the air. The company is sometimes blocked from making personal tour arrangements when a ship is in port as a cruise line may have priority on bookings. Contact them in advance for arrangements. See their website for tour options and pricing.

Spring Hill Riding Club - http://www.springhillriding.com/ - offers private (maximum 4 riders) trail and beach rides for $50US pp for an hour’s ride and they start around 9:30am to avoid the worst heat of the day. There is an option to take a ‘swim’ with the horses for an additional $20US each. There are a couple of different ride locations to choose from. See their website for additional information.

ISLAND TOURS
There are lots of operators who will provide you with an island tour. Island tours generally will visit sights such as Nelson’s Dockyard, Shirley Heights, and Devil’s Bridge, to name a few. They will also usually have a beach stop fit into the tour. You can hire most any cab outside of the pier area and they will take you around the island. You can also make advance arrangements with well-recommended operators via their websites/email. Below are three operators who all receive great reviews from past clients:

Gordon’s Tours - http://www.tourguidegordon.com/

Lawrence of Antigua - http://www.lawrenceofantigua.com/

Antigua Premier Tours (Carl) - http://www.antiguapremiertours.com/index.html

Enjoy a fantastic day on this beautiful island!!