Monday, March 8, 2010

St. Martin/Sint Maarten, Netherland Antilles

St. Martin/Sint Maarten's nickname is 'the friendly island' and is the smallest piece of land shared by two countries. It is only 37 square miles. The largest part of this island is owned by the French (St. Martin) with a population of around 35,000 and the smaller portion is owned by the Dutch (Sint Maarten) with a population of around 45,000.  English is widely spoken around the island.  You can freely cross the border between the two holdings without passports or checkpoints. Most cruise ships usually dock at Philipsburg (Dutch side) but some smaller ships may dock at Marigot (French side). All of the information in this post will be assuming your ship is docked in Philipsburg.

MAP

GETTING AROUND

WALKING
From the cruise terminal area, it is about a 10-15 minute walk into Philipsburg. There is a walkway along the 'highway' that is protected by barriers.  You will see a sign (below) for a shortcut over a little bridge that will lead you to another Water Taxi stop, along the Boardwalk and to Front Street. Front Street is the main shopping 'drag' and it is the first paved street away from the beach. It is lined with shops, restaurants, bars, etc. There are also shops along Back Street as well.
Sign for shortcut
WATER TAXI
You can also catch a water taxi from the cruise ship pier into town. The cost is $4pp one way or $6pp if you buy an all day pass that allows you to use the water taxi as many times as you want throughout the day. It is a beautiful ride across a gorgeous turquoise bay to the downtown pier. The only negative is that the lines for the water taxis are often really long and you need to decide if you want to waste precious beach/shopping time waiting in line. The water taxis drop off and pick up at three spots: the cruise ship pier, Bobby's Marina and the downtown pier. They run this route all day. I've read that there is a new water taxi stop at the far end of the Boardwalk just past the Sea Palace Hotel as well. I will be confirming this on our next stop in St. Martin.

TAXI CABS
The taxi fares on this island are regulated and all fares are posted at the taxi stands. No matter which cab you take, the price should be the same! Prices are subject to change from time to time and I will attempt to keep them as current as possible. There is a taxi stand at the cruise ship terminal.

Posted Taxi Fares (one way) from the cruise ship pier:
To downtown - $3pp
To Little Bay - $4pp
To Orient Beach - $18(1-2 people), $7pp (3-5 people), $6pp (6 people +)
To Dawn Beach - $15(1-2), $7pp (3-5), $6pp (6 people +)
To Mullet Bay/Maho Bay -$18(1-2), $8pp (3-5), $7pp (6 people +)
To Marigot - $15(1-2), $7pp (3-5), $6pp (6 people +)
To Pinel Island - $25(1-2), $9pp (3-5), $7pp (6 people +)

Obviously, it is much more cost effective to find some others who are going the same spot you want to go.

BUSES
A thriftier option is to use the local "buses" that charge around $2.00 per person, depending on where on the island you are going to. They are primarily used by the local workforce to get to and from work so they don’t provide service to many of the regular tourist spots. They don't service the beaches on the east coast (Dawn Beach, Orient Beach, Pinel Island) but have great routes to the west coast (Marigot, Mullet Bay Beach, Maho Bay). Most are white mini-vans with the destination name printed on a large sign in the front window. Check to make sure the license plate starts with ‘BUS’ as some taxis (license plate starts with ‘TAXI’) look exactly the same. You can catch the bus at the bus stop on Back Street in P’burg (right at the end of Old Street which runs between Front and Back Streets) or you can flag them down. On your return trip, simply go back to the area where you were dropped off and flag down another one. They will not stop if they are full, but wait a bit and another one will soon come along. It is polite to greet those in the bus when you get in. Feel free to ask for help from the driver. They are generally friendly and helpful to let you know when to get out. You can double check that they are going where you want to go but don’t ask them to drop you back at the pier as buses do not go to the pier and they will charge you regular cab fare. Sometimes they will offer to drive straight to a destination instead of stopping along the route to pick other passengers up. This option will then change your fare so make sure you settle on the fare before you accept this option. On our trip in March 2010, the bus driver drove the 8 of us directly to Mullet Bay Beach for $3 per person and arranged to pick us up again later in the afternoon at Maho Bay Beach and take us back to the ship for $3pp. Not all drivers may make this deal so discuss this before you get in the bus. If you go the regular route (stop to pick up passengers along the way) then the fares can be different depending on where you get dropped off so ask what the fare is when you get on the bus and have it ready to pay to the driver on exiting. Having small bills and coins would be a good idea! For those who may have concerns over safety, all I can say is that we have used this option many times and have never felt unsafe or had a bad experience.

INTERNET CAFÉS
As with many business, internet cafés tend to come and go. There are usually several in Philipsburg. Just ask a local shopkeeper for the nearest spot.

An internet search indicates that there is a spot called Cyberlink which is located on Front St across from Little Switzerland. It has about 20 computers, serves coffee, espresso and cold drinks and also has a mini-mart. Cost is $3 per hour.

BEACHES
There are so many beautiful beaches on this island that it would take too long to provide information on all of them. I have tried to summarize info on the most well known spots. Remember that this island has a very European culture so most beaches you will go to will have topless bathers and some beaches will have a clothing-optional area.

Great Bay Beach - this beach is right along the waterfront in Philipsburg. It is within easy walking distance of the cruise ship pier and is a low maintenance option if you don't want to travel too far to get to a beach. It has lots of spots that rent loungers and umbrellas and offer food and drinks. It is a great beach for sunning but the water quality of the bay is not the best so locals don't recommend swimming in the water.

Orient Beach – this is the best known beach on the island and is located on the French side. It is a prime destination for many cruisers and has tons of bars and restaurants. Club Orient is the nude portion of the beach and it is located at the far end of the beach (to the far right of where the cabs drop you off). Most beaches on the island are topless and a few are clothing optional. You will be likely to see topless women all along Orient Beach and sometimes you will spot a nudist strolling up the beach from Club Orient. It is a beautiful white sand beach with crystal blue waters and usually has pretty good waves. Beware if the waves are really high as the undertow will be strong. The beach is generally very crowded when there are several cruise ships in port so if you are looking for a quiet beach, this would not be the spot to go.

The beach is lined with bars/restaurants which also offer loungers and umbrellas. You cannot sit on a lounger without paying for it and staff take exception if you lay your towels down in front of the loungers. The cheapest spot for renting loungers/umbrellas seems to be ‘Le String’ at $8 for one lounger and umbrella, a drink and access to their bathrooms. There aren’t easily accessible public bathrooms unless you purchase one of these packages from one of the bars along the strip.

There is a grocery store located behind the ‘Bikini Beach Bar’ where you can pick up some snacks, drinks, etc. We have rented a chair/umbrella but most times we walk down the beach a way until we find a spot that is not in front of the bars/restaurant and put down our towel. If you plan to spend most of the day there, it is worth it to get a lounger and umbrella.

Dawn Beach – the discussion boards are full of good comments about this beach. It is about a 15 minute drive from downtown P'burg and is located just down the coast from Orient Beach. Restrooms are available as well as a restaurant. A beach resort and the Westin hotel are located on this beach and you get a great view of St. Bart’s in the distance. The surf can get quite rough which means this beach is not well suited for little ones. You can rent 2 lounge chairs with an umbrella for $15. You can also get a massage with aloe for $20 for 20 minutes. Snorkeling is pretty good as there is a coral reef offshore, but you will have to swim a bit to get there.

Le Galion – also known as 'Coconut Grove' or 'Baby Beach'. It is located between Dawn Beach and Orient Bay and is much quieter than the others. There is a coral reef just offshore which means calmer waters, especially nearer the North end of the beach. There is a slow drop-off into the water which makes it perfect for families with small children as you can walk out a good distance without getting into deep water. It has facilities and a place you can get something to eat. You can rent beach chairs and some water toys/gear are available for rent.

Pinel Island – this island is just up the coast from Orient Beach. A cab will cost around $7pp (one way) from P'burg. The island is reached by a ferry (actually a small boat with an outboard motor) and costs $7pp round trip. It is a lovely small island with white sand beaches. This is probably one of the better snorkeling spots on the island but St. Martin is not best known for its snorkeling. There are some touristy shops and bars as well. Generally not too crowded and is quiet because it involves a bit more effort and cost to get to it.

Maho Bay - this is a small beach located near the Princess Juliana airport. Its main attraction is that the airport runway is directly behind the beach so that when the planes land, you are incredibly close to them. The Sunset Beach Bar is located at one end of the beach. It offers a good view of the planes landing and broadcasts the air-traffic control chatter. Plan to buy at least a drink in order to have a seat in the bar. 

Here is the link to the airport arrival/departure schedule:  http://www.flightstats.com/go/FlightStatus/flightStatusByAirport.do?airportCode=SXM&airportQueryType=1


Mullet Bay Beach – This is a beautiful crescent-shaped beach located just a short walk up the coast from Maho Bay. Its active surf means it is popular with surfers. It can range from calmer waves to very large waves and the riptide can get dangerous when the waves are really big. Swim with a buddy if that's the case! Not likely a great option for families with younger children. You can snorkel near the rocks at either end of the beach. It doesn't offer all of the amenities of Orient Beach but does have a couple of spots to grab something to eat and, in front of the hotel, you can rent loungers and umbrellas. We quite often will take the bus to Mullet Bay and enjoy some beach time...then walk down to Maho Bay around 1pm so we are in time to see some of the larger planes land at the airport.

Baie Rouge - this beach got its name from the soft, lightly tinted, 'pink' sand found there. It is quite isolated and extremely quiet, except maybe on weekends when locals come out to enjoy this spot and things get a bit busier. The farther away from the entrance you go, the less clothing people will have on. The far West end of the beach is clothing optional. Some good snorkeling toward the east end along with a swim-through cave. There is a sharp drop-off a bit offshore so walk carefully. There are a couple of snack shacks available.

TOURS
Island tours are available. I have never taken an island tour so my information has been gathered by researching recommendations given by other travellers on discussion boards. My goal is to simply advise you of some options that have had very positive feedback and is not intended to be a personal recommendation.

Bernard's Tours - Private tour runs $350 total for up to 10 people on the van, which works out to $35 pp which is very reasonable for several hours seeing the island sights. http://www.bernardstours.com/

Joyce Prince - This lady is well-known around the island. If you have ever seen the "Feasting on Waves" series on the Food Network, Joyce is the guide that took Alton Brown around St. Martin. Her website is http://www.princepersonal.com/

Victor Bryan - gets excellent reviews - email at victor.bryan@wanadoo.fr

You can also get off the ship and head to the taxi stand. A ‘circle island’ tour (which would take you around the entire island) would be about $25 pp if over 8 people…however, I do not know if they would tailor your tour and stop wherever you wanted to???

SHOPPING
There are lots of shops in Philipsburg. Jewelry and electronics are usually very well-priced here. Sint Maarten being a Dutch holding, they also have gorgeous tablecloths, linens and Delft pottery. Again, know your prices at home so you can be sure you are finding a good deal.

There is an outdoor shopping market in the French town of Marigot, which is a bit of a drive up and around the coast. Marigot is the most popular town on the French side and has a lot of upscale shops and restaurants but you can grab something to eat on the waterfront from one of the local lolo BBQ's, on the boardwalk, for a reasonable price.

There is a shop called Rima’s, in Philipsburg, which seems to be where most of the island vendors buy their wares (or so goes the rumour). It is a big store with lots of beachwear, souvenirs, cheaper jewelry, etc. at prices that are usually better than beach vendors or at the market. Rima's is located at 41 Pondfill Road right beside the Salt Pond. A good stop to pick up your souvenirs. It is a good walk to get to or you could get the bus to drop you there on your return to town.

OTHER OPTIONS
CAR RENTAL – There are many car rental spots on the island. They have most of the usual spots (Hertz, Budget, etc) plus a few local spots that receive good reviews. Arthur's Car Rental is a local business that has some very good prices and is not far from the pier. http://www.arthurscarrental.com/

Make sure you check with your insurance carrier or your credit card company (if it provides coverage) about whether you are covered on St. Martin as it appears that North American insurance companies may not provide coverage there.

The streets of Philipsburg are very narrow and can be difficult to navigate as there is generally bumper-to-bumper traffic downtown. If this stresses you out, choose a cab or bus. No need to get your blood pressure up while on vacation ☺

Once out of Philipsburg, it isn't very difficult to navigate your way around the island as there is really just one main road to follow that travels in a circle around the island (see map near top of post). Most arteries are off this main road.

IMPORTANT TRAFFIC WARNING!! One thing to bear in mind is that there is a drawbridge at Simpson Bay, which is on the way back from Maho Bay/Mullet Bay. It opens to let big yachts pass through and brings traffic to a standstill at those times. Depending on how many ships are docked, you could run into some major delays. The schedule can vary but the usual problem time is in late afternoon so we usually try to head back to the ship by 3pm, at the latest, to be back on board by 5pm. Whether you rent a car, take a cab or take the bus....keep this issue in mind!

ATTRACTIONS /EXCURSIONS

I have tried to provide an overview of available attractions and excursions on St. Martin/Sint Maarten. This is not intended to be a personal recommendation of these companies (unless otherwise stated). My goal is simply to list the most popular excursions and outings that I have come across in my research and to provide a link for you to get more information for any item that you may be interested in.

Loterie Farm Treetop Adventurehttp://www.loteriefarm.net/ . This is an aerial obstacle course and zipline adventure. It also has a couple restaurants and hiking facilities.

The Butterfly Farm http://www.thebutterflyfarm.com/ . This is a large attraction filled with hundreds of species of butterflies. You can feed them and they will land on your hands. Entrance fee $12pp.

Lord Sheffield's Tall Ship Adventures - http://www.stmaarten-shoretrips.com/lordsheffield/

Captain Morgan's Day Charters - http://www.captainmorgan-daycharters.com/. Spend a delightful time sailing on a 65 ft schooner.

Rhino Riders - http://www.atlantisadventures.com/stmartin/rhino-rider-double/. Captain your very own 10 foot inflatable motor boat.

Bayside Riding Club - http://www.baysideridingclub.com/. Horseback riding on the beach. There is another stable on the island however, reviews have stated that they appear to put a priority on cruise tours and if you arrange this one on your own, you may be left waiting while cruise tours go first.

Segway's on the Boardwalk - There is a stand on the boardwalk where you can book a segway tour or you can email 's.duinkerk@hotmail.com to make a reservation in advance. $60 for an hour and 15 minutes or $30 for a half hour.

America's Cup Yacht Racing - http://www.12metre.com/ - race an America's Cup yacht in a recreation of the famous yacht race. This excursion can be a lot of work as guests are responsible for certain tasks associated with racing the yacht. If you do this, you will not get to relax or enjoy the scenery very much. I believe you can just choose to be a viewer as well but you should check this out if you don't want to work very hard. A great excursion for those who love to get active and feel the wind in their hair.

Enjoy all there is to enjoy on this beautiful island!!

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