Cruise 2011 - Day 6 - ST KITTS, WEST INDIES

View of Basseterre from the ship

We all were up early again for breakfast and were off the ship by 9am. We were on the hunt for Daniela from “Ride St. Kitts” where we had reserved two scooters for a tour around the island. We were torn between excitement and a bit of nervousness over all of the horrible stories we had heard about people getting injured on scooters while on vacation. I kept saying that I probably would not do this on too many other islands as there is just simply too much traffic. On St. Kitts, once you get out of Basseterre, there is one road that goes around the entire island so I didn’t think it would be as risky.

We didn’t spot Daniela so we started walking down Bay Road (which is the front road stretching along the waterfront) following the map that was on their website. After a couple of stops to make sure we were heading the right way, we found their storefront about a 7-8 minute walk from Port Zante, where the cruise ships dock. Daniela went over the map of the island with us and gave us her overview of her perfect day on St. Kitts. We wanted to head to the beach right away but she recommended that we do the route around the island first and head to the beach in the afternoon. We bowed to her greater experience and took her advice, which we were glad we did!

When we arrived, Daniela told us that the government on St. Kitts had just implemented a new requirement for visitors to have a temporary driving permit for scooters. It was going to cost an additional $24 for each driver.  We figured that we might as well go ahead with it as we had been looking forward to this outing all week. Daniela got the guys geared up to take them over to the fire station to get their permit. Another couple had also arrived and were getting ready to leave as well. Unfortunately, I don’t think buddy was as experienced as he thought and he hit the gas instead of the brake, lurched across the road and ran into two scooters parked on the opposite sidewalk. The bike fell over and the wife’s leg was underneath the scooter! Fortunately, there were no major injuries, a pavement burn on the wife’s leg and definitely some aftershocks to deal with but they decided not to go. We were all a little shaky after seeing that and I think we all questioned whether we were doing something crazy or not. We marshaled our resources and forged ahead. Dave and Trent went with Daniela on the scooters to the fire station so that they could get a feel for the bikes and get used to them before Rebecca and I got on the back.   They were only gone a short time and had their permits in hand on their return. After some last minute instructions from Tim, we headed out on the highway…♫♪lookin’ for adventure♪♫.

The first part of our drive was the longest on the scooters. It gave us a chance to get used to driving on the left side of the road and get a feel for how the scooters responded. We made a couple of stops to take photos of the gorgeous surf on the Atlantic side of the island.


What a gorgeous coastline!

We traveled almost all of the way up the Atlantic side heading for Black Rocks. At one point, we went straight and found out very quickly that we were going the wrong way. We figured this out because we drove by a small park and a lady sitting on a bench yelled out to us “You’re going the wrong way!!”. Oddly enough, we weren’t entirely sure what she meant so we kept driving. We didn’t get too far down the road before another lady jumped out of her car and yelled “You’re going the wrong way!!”. At that point we figured…we must be going the wrong way ☺ We stopped and the lady told us that we should have followed the white dotted lines which marked the highway and had turned to the right when we had gone straight. She gave us directions to head back and turn left further down the road. We did what she told us and got on the main road again!

I must say that a fabulous part of touring the island this way is the close contact with the people! You drive through lots of small towns and the locals wave and tell you to have a good day or ask if you are enjoying their island. You just do not get that kind of contact when you are taking a tour in a van or car.

Our first stop was at Black Rocks which are volcanic rock formations along the Atlantic coast. The rocks are very chunky and rough looking and some of them are located out in the pounding surf. It is amazing how hard the waves crash into the shore and it is kind of mesmerizing to sit and watch them for awhile.



Black Rocks

We checked out the touristy stuff near the lookoff and Rebecca indulged her addiction to coconut and picked up a bag of freshly chopped coconut for a snack. Mmmm!!

We hopped back on the bikes and headed up the coast to Dieppe Bay and the Golden Lemon Inn (recommended by Daniela). Dieppe Bay is the spot on the island where the currents of the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. You can look out into the water and see white caps coming in one direction and other white caps meeting them at almost a 90 degree angle. Very cool! We spent some time on the black sand beach and then walked over to the inn to check things out.

Black sand beach at Dieppe Bay

The Golden Lemon Inn was a delight! It is a 17th century stone building peppered with lemon yellow doors and shutters. They had no problem with us wandering around the hotel and we headed upstairs and found a cozy library/reading nook and a sitting room furnished with old portraits and antiques. We also checked out the large front porch that had a fantastic view of the beach from the second level.

Rested and re-hydrated, we got back on the bikes and headed to the western side of the island and Caribelle Batik at Romney Manor.

The Manor is set at the base of a stretch of mountains located near the centre of the island and boasts some gorgeous gardens that you can wander through at your own pace. There are also some ruins of an old sugarcane plantation as well as Caribelle Batik, which makes gorgeous batik fabrics and has a wide range of clothing and other batik offerings in their gift shop. If you want a unique souvenir that is truly local to the island, this is the place to pick it up!

We spent some time around the grounds and watched a demonstration of how they make the batik fabrics. There was a deluge of rain while we were there but it didn’t last very long. Most people were running for shelter but I was so warm that I stayed right out in the middle of the rain for awhile and cooled off!

Batik demonstration at Caribelle Batik

After the rain had passed, we got on the road again and finished the loop back to Basseterre. We passed through the town of Basseterre and headed for Timothy Hill, which is a gateway to the south end of the island where most of the popular beaches are located. Timothy Hill has a great lookout spot with a gorgeous view of that end of the island. It overlooks the spot in the Caribbean where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean are the closest, without actually touching. They come within about 600m of each other.


View from atop Timothy Hill

We maxed out the scooter power and got to the top however we noticed right away that Trent & Rebecca were not behind us?? We looked down the road but it was so curved that we could not see very far down. Dave walked down the hill looking for them but came back up because he didn’t spot them. I was chatting with a couple of German tourists who pointed out what looked like a scooter on a little outcropping on the side of the road quite a way down the hill. Dave and I hopped on our bike and headed for that spot. Sure enough, there were the intrepid duo…their scooter had quit partway up the hill and they had to pull off. Dave went back up the hill to see if he could find a cabbie to borrow a phone and call Daniela or Tim. He finally found one and Tim arrived very quickly within about 15 minutes. He found the problem very quickly and replaced the spark plug that had shaken itself out of its holder. With such a quick response, we were back on the road in very short order.

We made our way down the other side of the hill and over to South Friar’s Bay to the beach. Rebecca and I had heard that they gave massages on several of the beaches on St. Kitts and were very keen to get one. Funny enough, we were just getting off our bikes when a guy walked by and we found out his name was “Magic Fingers” and he and his mom, Laverne, gave 30 minute massages for $30. We made an appointment with him and then we set off to the beach. Before we even got there, we came across a bunch of monkeys hanging out around the Shipwreck Bar. They were getting fed some bananas and the tourists were madly snapping photos. Of course, I had to join in because that is not a sight you see every day.


A monkey having a snack!



South Friar's Beach

We eventually made our way to the beach and found a quiet spot and got right into the water. Ahhh….we were so hot and sweaty and the water was so wonderfully refreshing. We stayed there until Magic Fingers found us and then Rebecca and I endured the torturous task of getting a massage…on the beach…with a beautiful tropical breeze. Well, someone has to do it : - ) One suggestion if you decide to do this – set your price and time frame in advance because you may hear that the $30 for 30 minutes only includes your feet and legs and you need to pay more if you want your back done. As long as everything is clear up front, they give a fantastic massage!!

We enjoyed a bit more time in the water before we got back on the scooters and headed back into town. We delivered the bikes to Ride St. Kitts and said our thanks and farewells to Daniela and Tim (who are fellow Canadians…did I mention that???). We walked back to Port Zante and found an internet café so we could find out what was going on in the ‘real world’ at home. We were back on the ship with just a few minutes to spare before ‘all-aboard’ at 5:30pm.

Supper was Chicken Tenders marinated in Thai spices, Tomatoes & Buffalo Mozzarella, Roasted Tom Turkey and a mouth-watering Apple Pie with ice cream for dessert. Checked out a couple of activities and decided we should close out our fabulous day in the hot tub!

We were glad that we didn’t let our nerves dissuade us from doing the scooter excursion because it turned out to be a true highlight of our trip. Daniela and Tim were so helpful and Tim’s quick response to our scooter ‘emergency’ kept it from being more than a small blip in our day!!

Two things I would recommend if you want to do this outing: one is that you MUST have had some kind of experience with motorcycles and/or scooters; second is to take it slowly at first and get used to the scooters. I would add a third thing as well…reapply your sunscreen often!! If you do that, you will have a stellar day on St. Kitts! 

If you want to find out more information about what to do on St. Kitts, check out my St. Kitts port-of-call post on this blog.

St. Kitts/Nevis

MAP OF ST. KITTS: http://www.skyviews.com/skyviews/maps/st-kitts/

MAP OF BASSETERRE: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/st-kitts-and-nevis/st-kitts/basseterre

Ships dock in the capital of St. Kitts, Basseterre. Sugar cane used to be the main industry on St. Kitts but most of the plantations have shut down and they are now focusing on tourism.

The island is fairly poor so keep that in mind when dealing with the locals. When you take an island tour with a reputable tour guide, they know what areas to stay away from on the island and you are generally safe. If you stick to the main streets in town, you shouldn’t have any problems either.

If someone offers to let you take a picture with them, a monkey or a bird…be aware that they expect a tip ($1-$2 at least) for the opportunity of doing so. Always ask in advance if they will charge a fee!

A craft market is located just to the left, past the cruise terminal shops.  This is a great spot to buy souvenirs and, if your bargaining skills are sharp, there are some great deals to be had.  Many of the vendors sell the same, or similar items, so if the price isn't right in one spot, you can probably find it in another kiosk.

In Basseterre, you should check out the 'Circus' area which is modelled on London's Picadilly Circus, to honor their British Colonial heritage.  There are lots of shops and restaurants around the Circus.  For those who are interested in history, you can also check out St. George's Anglican Church and Independence Square both within walking distance of the pier.

INTERNET CAFÉ – Sun Surf Internet Café at TDC Mall, Fort Street or ask around the terminal area as sometimes a new spot has opened up.

EXCURSIONS

GREG’S SAFARIS –  http://www.gregsafaris.com/ - offers a wide variety of tours and gets great reviews on the discussion boards.

BRIMSTONE HILL FORTRESS – http://www.brimstonehillfortress.org/ - entry fee $8pp. It is a World Heritage site designed as a fortification by the British and built by African slaves. A great stop if you love history!!

ROMNEY MANOR AND CARIBELLE BATIK -  http://www.caribellebatikstkitts.com/
An historic estate that boasts delightfully lush gardens and a batik factory where they use traditional wax and dye techniques to produce batik fabrics used in wall hangings and clothing.  You can browse their gift shop for some unique batik gift items.

RIDE ST. KITTS - http://ridestkitts.com/ - enjoy touring the island on your very own scooter (one seater for $55US and two seater for $75US).  You rent the scooter by the day and have the run of the island.  Check out the fortress or stop at a beach.  They will only rent to those who have had previous experience on scooters or motorcycles.  There is one main road around the entire island and not a lot of traffic to deal with!  We did this tour in Jan 2011 and had a fantastic time!!  Daniela and Tim have a great set-up and give good advice and suggestions for your day on St. Kitts.  We got a whole new appreciation for the island and the people by seeing it by scooter vs taxi.

ISLAND TOURS
Most island tours will take you to Brimstone Hill Fortress, Romney Manor and Black Rocks, which are large volcanic rock formations along the coast - beautiful!!!

THENFORD GREY – good reviews about the island tours offered by this gentleman. $40pp. Contact ‘thenang06@yahoo.com’ if you would like to book with him.

ILVA WALLACE – we took an island tour with this lady the first time we were on the island. She knows the island very well and is an excellent tour guide. She will stop wherever you want…and will take you to South Friar’s Beach for about an hour at the end of the tour. $40pp but you may be able to get $30pp if you bargain. Likely depends on demand. Contact ‘ilvawallace@yahoo.com’.

ROYSTON/ASHTON - Royston and his cousin, Ashton, get consistently high marks from past visitors for their great island tours.  You can reach them at 'roystontours@hotmail.com'.

LIZ PEREIRA - http://lizpereirastourstore.shutterfly.com/ - Liz has taken over the old 'Tour Store' operation that used to exist on the island.  She gets excellent reviews.

BEACHES
The beaches on St. Kitts are not the most attractive in the Caribbean. The sand has a high coral concentration and is a dirty beige color and quite gritty. At several beaches, there is usually a quick drop-off into the water that can be hard on your feet as there are tons of shells and coral bouncing around in the surf. Having said that, the water is warm and you can enjoy some great waves. If you collect shells, then you will love searching the water line for treasures. We have only been to South Friar’s.

TIP #1 – if you take a cab to the beach, the drivers will come back for you if you tell them a specific time. Do not pay for the trip until you are back at the pier. Most drivers won’t require payment because they want the fare both ways…but you should clarify before you get into the cab that he/she only wants you to pay on return and what the price will be.

TIP #2 – vendors can be quite aggressive at some of the beaches. You need to say a firm “no, thank you!”. If you start asking them questions, then they figure you are fair game. For example – some vendors patrol the beach offering massages with aloe vera. They will offer to give you a ‘free trial’ however, they won’t tell you when the ‘free trial’ part ends and the paid portion begins. After 25 minutes, they will ask for the money! Unless you are interested (and there are great reviews about the massages…if you decide to get one) don’t take the free trial. Cost is usually about $20 for 25 minutes.

COCKLESHELL BEACH – Cab $26 each way for 1-4 people. Chair rental $6. This beach has the best reviews…not generally very crowded as it is a bit of a drive to get there. Lots of nice shells to be found. The views are better down by the Lion’s Beach Bar. Wilbur the pig (700 lbs) can be found near one of the beach bars and there are usually a couple of monkeys around as well. Some pretty good snorkeling to the left end of the beach.

SOUTH FRIAR’S BEACH - $15 cab each way (1-4 people). Lots of shells. Not a very wide beach and drops off quickly at entrance to the water.  We were at this beach in Jan 2011 and had a fantastic massage from 'Magic Fingers' and his mother, Laverne ($30 for 30 minutes - set your price and time at the beginning).  Nothing could beat laying on a beach chair on a Caribbean island enjoying a fantastic massage!!

SOUTH FRIGATE BAY aka ‘The Strip’ – this is the beach closest to the pier so it is usually quite crowded. $10 cab each way (1-4 people). It has lots of restaurants and beach bars, bathroom facilities, places to rent snorkel equipment. You can rent chairs and umbrellas at Mr. X’s Shiggidy Shack (not sure of cost but probably around $15 for two chairs and an umbrella). Lots of great comments about the massages offered by Dennis.

NORTH FRIGATE BAY – $10 cab each way (1-4 people) or you can walk about 30 minutes from South Frigate Bay across a narrow part of the island. Word is that the views of the Atlantic and Caribbean waters are fantastic and make for some great pictures. The Marriott hotel is on this beach and you can pay for a day pass to access their facilities.

MARRIOTT DAY PASS - http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/skbrb-st-kitts-marriott-resort-and-the-royal-beach-casino/ - You can also spend the day at the Marriott Hotel property.  A day pass costs $35pp or you can rent a room for $65 (plus tax/fees) if you want a place for you and your group to change or for the kids to have a nap.  You get full run of the resort's beach and pool but drinks and food are extra.  You don't have to make your arrangements in advance but if there are several ships in port, they may run out of available rooms.

NEVIS

On one of our stops to St. Kitts, we took the ferry over to the island of Nevis for a change of scenery. The ferry docks in Charlestown, the main town on Nevis. The ferry terminal is located, at most, a 10 minute walk from the Port Zante Cruise terminal (exit and walk to the left) and it costs $6-$8US pp each way and takes about 45 minutes to make the crossing. You also may have to pay a small customs fee (generally not more than $1). They say that they start selling tickets about a ½ hour before sailing but, when we were there, they only opened the ticket window right around when the schedule said the ferry would leave. There are two main ferries that cover the run to Nevis – the Carib Breeze and Carib Surf (sometimes the Carib Queen runs). Quite often, only one of them will run at a time and schedules can change so you should confirm schedules on leaving so you know for sure when the return ferries run. The general rule of thumb is to go over on the earliest ferry you can manage and return on the 1pm ferry if your ship’s ‘all aboard’ is before 5pm. This will generally give you about 3 hours on the island.

You can check the published ferry schedule here: http://www.discover-stkitts-nevis-beaches.com/st-kitts-nevis-ferry-schedule.html

Nevis is a beautiful island but there is not a lot of activity. You can take a tour by arranging with a cab driver at the ferry dock or just catch a cab to a beach on the island.

Check out this link for a list of sights to check out: http://www.nevisisland.com/Landmarks1.htm

There are several beaches on the island but the most popular beaches are Pinney’s Beach and Oualie Beach (Resort). Pinney’s is about 3 miles long and runs along the coast starting just outside Charlestown. You should catch a cab to Oualie. The beach is part of a resort but they are very welcoming of day visitors.

Your visit to St. Kitts/Nevis can be as busy or as relaxed as you want it to be!