Cruise Jan 2011 - Day 1 SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO

I actually consider Day 1 to be the day we started off on our journey but I will combine Jan 28th and 29th and call it Day 1.

Our trip actually began when we left home on the evening of the 27th and headed to Halifax. We stayed with Donald & Sarah H., which was a lovely way to start our vacation. They treated us to some delicious nachos and a mouth-watering salsa, imported straight from Albuquerque. We stayed up late talking and were up around 4am to head to the airport so I don’t think I got more than a couple of hours sleep.

Our flights on US Airways went fantastic! They were both on time leaving and arrived a bit early at each destination. With all of the storms that have been hitting Atlantic Canada and the east coast of the U.S., I don’t need to tell you that we were happy to get out between storm systems!

We landed at the Luis Munoz Marin International Airport in San Juan at around 2:20pm. It took a long while to get our baggage as, in typical island fashion, they couldn’t seem to decide which carousel the baggage would come out on. It ended up coming out on two different carousels – neither of which was labeled in any way with the flight number! Do not expect things to work in the same way as they do at home. Island time is much slower and efficiency is not often a priority. You have to go with the attitude that you are on vacation and will go with the flow.

We caught a cab to the Comfort Inn on Calle Clemencau in the Condado area. Cab fares in San Juan are regulated so there is a flat fee depending on which zone you are traveling to as well as $1 for each piece of luggage. Our trip from the airport to the hotel cost $25. We checked in around 4pm and went directly to our room and changed into some ‘warm weather’ clothing and headed out to Condado Beach. The beach is just a five minute walk from the hotel and we wanted to get whatever warmth and sun remained of the day. The sun was going down behind the hotels and apartment buildings lining the beach but we found a sunny spot and just sat in the sand, smelled the salt air and watched the big waves crashing on the shore. Condado is a great beach for surfing and boogie boarding as San Juan is on the Atlantic Ocean side of Puerto Rico.

We were getting quite hungry after our long day of travel so we headed up Ashford Ave to Danny’s Pizza. They make absolutely delicious pizza with a light but crispy crust and tomato sauce to die for!! We always have to order a couple of extra dishes of sauce to dip our pizza in. So yummy!

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Walgreens on Ashford to pick up snacks and a case of water to take on the ship with us. Bottles of water on the ship usually run about $4 each so it is much cheaper to buy your own or take on a refillable bottle to fill at one of the drink stations on ship. We usually tuck an extra collapsible duffle bag into our luggage to put our water in and check at the pier.  It was a quiet evening and an early bedtime since we had been up for many, many hours and were ready for some shut eye.

There is nothing like waking up and seeing beautiful sun and fluffy white clouds outside your window – and NO SNOW!! We started the day off with some scriptures and a couple of worship prayers seeing as it was Sunday. We grabbed some free continental breakfast in the breakfast room and headed out to the beach again. We weren’t planning on checking into the ship until around noon and didn’t want to miss one ray of sunshine. The guys braved the big waves and the girls relaxed on the beach and read…and kept an eye on our men to ensure that they weren’t drowning!!

Back to the hotel, showered and caught a cab to the Old San Juan Pier 4 where the Carnival Victory was berthed. The cab fare from the hotel to the OSJ Pier was $21. We arrived later than we normally would (around 12:45pm) but it actually worked out perfectly because there were no line-ups and we were checked in and on the ship within 15 minutes. In no time, we were at the Mediterranean Buffet grabbing some lunch. There are so many lunch options available – the regular buffet line, the deli sandwich station, the sushi station, the grill station out by the pool area. If you couldn’t find anything to eat – you had some issues! We topped off lunch with a soft yogurt which is available 24 hours a day.

We did a bit of touring around the ship to check out what changes had been made since our Victory cruise in March 2010. The Victory went to dry dock in October 2010 so there were a few changes we noticed. Specifically, there was a new adult-only retreat area called Serenity which offered a gorgeous spot for sunning and relaxation with vibrant teal lounge beds and woven chairs. You could tell that carpets had been updated and a few other smaller refurbishments made around the ship. The cabins were ready around 2:30pm so we dropped our stuff and found that most of our bags had been delivered.


Serenity Retreat



The view of the central pool, hot tubs and water slide



The view across the bay to the Pan American pier where most ships depart San Juan

We got off the ship to find the Marshall’s store that I read about online. It is located right beside Plaza de Armas in Old San Juan. It was about a 10 minute walk to get there. I wasn’t as impressed as some of the online reviewers were. There were definitely some good deals to be found but not as many deals or as much selection as I had hoped. Rebecca bought a bathing suit top and I bought a bottom for $10. Between us, we had an entire suit : - ) There were rain showers starting when we exited Marshall’s so we walked back to Paseo Gilberto Concepción de Gracia, which runs right along the waterfront, made a stop at the CVS and then quickly got back to the ship. Our missing suitcase was outside our door so I unpacked and then a nap was definitely called for. A wonderful thing about vacation is that there are no restrictions on the number of naps you can take in one day!

Supper that evening was open seating with no scheduled time so we made our way to the Pacific Dining Room around 6:30pm. The food on cruises can be one of the things that receive widely ranging reviews but I have rarely had any problems with the food options and quality on most of our cruises. There are generally about five appetizer options, two or three salad options, six or seven entrées and three dessert offerings. Dave has a very restricted diet and he had no problem sticking to it throughout the cruise. I think most of us had the ribs for supper and they were so tender, they would just fall off the bone. Delish!!

We attended the required Safety Briefing at 9:30pm and then hurried back to our cabins to get our bathing suits on so we could enjoy the hot tub near the aft (adult) pool. Sail-away was at 10pm and we sat in the hot tub for a good hour and a half while the Victory sailed out of San Juan Harbour past El Morro Fortress on our way to many delightful island adventures.

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is both a popular port of call on Caribbean cruises and also the main departure port for most southern itineraries. Puerto Rico is officially a Commonwealth and is a self-governing territory of the US. Most people you will encounter will speak English as well as Spanish. Drivers tend to be a bit crazy on this island so renting a car is not for the faint of heart! Get a good map and keep your eyes wide open. Others have rented cars and lived to tell the story ☺

If you are departing on a cruise from San Juan, most people will stay at a hotel in Condado, Isla Verde or Old San Juan (OSJ) due to their proximity to the piers. There are two main cruise piers in San Juan: the Old San Juan pier and the Pan American pier. Most ships stopping for the day in San Juan will port at the Old San Juan pier. Most ships beginning a cruise in San Juan will depart from the Pan Am pier however Carnival cruises usually leave from OSJ Pier 4. If you tell your cab driver which ship you are on, they will generally know which pier you need to be at.

TIP: If you are flying in for a cruise or need to wait for a flight out after a cruise, you can drop your luggage at Restaurant Barrachina (104 Calle Fortaleza) in OSJ and they will store it for you at no cost.

MAP
Map of Puerto Rico and map of Old San Juan – http://www.travelmaps.com/

TAXI CABS

All cab fares are regulated by the government and broken down into zones. You pay a flat fee from one zone to another, plus $1 for each piece of luggage. For more information on the various zones and fares, click on: http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/getting-around-by-taxi/

BUS INFO

Local buses are a very cheap alternative to get between downtown areas and Old San Juan.  Fares run between $0.50 - $0.75 each way. Schedules are not always firm so some flexibility is required. Route B-21 runs from Condado to OSJ. Route A-5 runs from Isla Verde to OSJ.  The bus is not a good option from the airport though.

ATTRACTIONS/SIGHTS

I have provided information on some of the more popular attractions and sights below. If you want to see a very detailed summary of all of the sights, go to: http://www.topuertorico.org/city/sanjuan.shtml

OLD SAN JUAN (OSJ)

This is the heart of the action for most visitors and is full of history and culture. You will find two fortresses and the Parliament House as well as tons of hotels, shops and restaurants. If you are in relatively good physical shape, you can walk to most locations in OSJ.

El Morro Fortress - $3 entrance fee or $5 for access to both El Morro and San Cristobal Fortresses. Valid for 24 hours. Open 9am – 6pm. This is the most well known of the two fortresses. Don’t miss the Paseo de la Princesa boardwalk path along the city wall. It is a beautiful walk to or from the Fortress and not to be missed. You can reach the path by walking to the left from the cruise ship pier, along Calle Marina, past the Plaza de Armas & La Casita (yellow building) and past the fountain where you will find the beginning of the boardwalk.

San Cristobal Fortress – $3 entrance fee or $5 for access to both El Morro and San Cristobal Fortresses. Valid for 24 hours. Open 9am – 6pm. This is the largest of the two fortresses and can be reached by walking up the hill and to the right from the pier area.

Restaurant Barrachina - http://www.barrachina.com/ - Located at 104 Forteleza in OSJ, Barrachina’s claim to fame is that they are the birthplace of the original Pina Colada. This restaurant will hold your bags for you, at no charge, while you are waiting for a flight or cruise to depart. If you are staying around OSJ, they also have a flamenco show on Friday and Saturday evenings at 8pm. Just ask to be seated in the show area!

Walking tour - If you are interested in a walking tour of Old San Juan, check out: www.frommers.com/destinations/sanjuan/0323010008.html

Shopping options - You can find vendors selling knock-off purses down along the waterfront. The popular Coach outlet is located at 150 Calle Cristo. You can find many local artisans selling their wares at Plaza Arturo Somohano located about a block behind the Sheraton Old San Juan.

OSJ FREE TROLLEY
There is a free trolley that travels around Old San Juan and makes regular stops at Covadonga, La Pultilla, Plaza de Armas and both forts. There are three different routes. You can get a map from the information kiosk near Pier 1. The trolley moves slowly due to traffic and, if speed is what you want, you would be faster on foot. There is a trolley stop right at the corner of the waterfront road and Corretjer St (the street going up to the left of Pier 4 and the second street up to the right from pier 3) but everyone from the ship will try to get on at that stop. If you walk a few blocks to the left of the pier along Calle Marina (parallel to the waterfront), there is a trolley stop to the left of the small yellow "Casita" building (Tourist Info Centre). Just follow the road to the left and look for the trolley stop marker beside the trucks that sell food/drinks at the plaza.

EL YUNQUE RAINFOREST – http://www.elyunque.com/ - located about an hour's drive from the pier, the park's hours of operation don’t appear to be fixed.  They say that they open ‘early’ and you cannot stay past 6pm. Entrance to the park is free, but if you stop at the Visitor’s Center, there is a fee of $3. You can pay $5pp for a guide from the Visitor’s Center. The best way to really enjoy the rainforest is to find a group tour or rent a car. Taxis are not permitted to enter the rainforest. Taxis must drop their passengers at the Visitor’s Centre, which is a good distance from the good hiking trails and scenic falls.

There are lots of hiking trails to choose from in the rainforest. You can select one based on your time frames and fitness level. Big Tree Trail is one of the more popular trails and a 20 minute hike will get you to La Mina Falls where you can enjoy a refreshing swim. Since it is very popular with large ship’s tours, it is best to hit this trail early to avoid the crowds. To get to the Mount Britton trail, drive on PR191 and park on side road 930 at km 13 marker. If you want to hike all the way to the mountain peak, aim to hit the peak by noon as often clouds roll in and the panoramic view may disappear in the afternoon. The hike to the peak appears to take between 1.5 and 2 hours. For a shorter option, if you hike about 20 minutes along Mount Britton Trail, you will reach the Mount Britton Observation Tower.  Juan Diego Creek is a less well-known spot so doesn't have much of a crowd.  If you hike about 1/8th of a mile along the creek (not a trail...more like a path), there are three different waterfalls to see.  You may also want to check out the 1575 foot Yokahu Observation Tower at km 8.8 on PR191.

LUQUILLO BEACH – This is a beach area located not far from El Yunque. A great spot for some beach time after touring the rainforest. Parking $4. Bathroom access $1 adult/ $0.50 children. There are actually four different beach sections in Luquillo:

1. "La Pared" (The Wall) is where the surfers hang out. Lots of action and heavy waves.
2. "Costa Azul" (Blue Coast) in front of the 3 condominiums is quiet with lots of 'snowbirds'.
3. "El Balneario El Monserrate" has lots of gorgeous palm trees and delightfully calm water that is perfect for young ones.
4. “Kiosk Beach” aka Jet Ski Beach located behind the 60 local food kiosks. Lots of people and jet ski traffic and can be a bit dirty.

PLAZA LAS AMERICAS – http://www.plazalasamericas.com/
This is a large, modern three-story mall. Open 9am – 9pm weekdays and Saturdays, 11am – 7pm on Sundays and contains many well known stores. The mall can be reached easily by cab or bus. From the Condado area, take bus B12. The bus stops running around 9pm and the fare is $0.75.  Have the exact change.

BACARDI RUM FACTORY TOUR – You can arrange this tour through the ship and pay a premium or you can do it on your own for very little money. Take the ferry from near the OSJ pier across the bay to Catano for $1 pp each way. On arrival, you can catch a cab for the short ride to the Bacardi Rum Factory which will cost around $2pp each way if there are a group of people heading there. You can get your free tour ticket in the gift shop area, along with your coupon for 2 free drinks, and then wait for the start of the next tour. You do not tour the actual distillery. The tour includes a movie of the company’s history, a mock up of the distillery, a chance to smell some of the different rums they make and a demonstration on how to make some rum drinks. The tour ends in the gift shop where you are entitled to 2 free rum drinks. Food for thought: Cruisers who did this tour through the ship say that it is overpriced and not worth the cost that the cruise lines charge.

CAMUY CAVES (Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy) – For more info, see http://www.gotopuertorico.com/caving-puerto-rico.php. The caves are only open Wednesday through Sunday from 8am to 4pm, or until they reach park capacity. It appears that the park only allows a certain number of visitors per day, so it is best to get there early. Entrance fees are $12 for adults and $7 for children (ages 2 – 12). Parking will cost you $3pp. There is generally a wait until your number is called to start your tour so patience is a virtue : - )

BIOLUMINESCENT BAY TOURS – These very unique tours are done at night as that is the prime time to experience the natural phenomenon of microscopic plankton that glow when the water is disturbed. The two most popular locations for this excursion are Fajardo or Vieques Island and you can tour either by boat or by kayak.  I have posted the most popular tour operations for each location below. You can also book a tour through the cruise ship, but it will definitely cost you more. This tour is best done around a new moon when there is not a lot of moonlight and it is easier to see the glow from the plankton. Check the moon calendar to see whether the moon phases match well with your vacation time in Puerto Rico : http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/biobay-and-moon/ . Make sure you take bug spray as bugs can sometimes be an issue!!

La Laguna Grande - located in Fajardo, to the north-east of San Juan.  Two well-reviewed tour operators are: http://www.bioislandpr.com/ or http://www.kayakingpuertorico.com/ . The pros are that this location is closer to San Juan, less costly than Vieques and the tour takes about 2 hours. On the con side, you do not get the chance to swim with the plankton and visitors who have taken both tours say that Mosquito Bay has way more organisms to be seen.

Mosquito Bay - located on the island of Vieques, off the coast of PR. You can get detailed information here: http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/eastwind-vieques-biobay/  and then book here: http://www.eastwindcats.com/pages/powercat_excursion1.html . You will need to scroll down the page to get to the Bio-Bay excursion. The pros of this tour are that you can enjoy a swim among the plankton and that there is less light pollution which enhances the experience even more. The con is that travel time is longer from San Juan and, therefore, requires more of a time commitment.

SEGWAY TOURS - http://www.segwaytourspr.com/ - Tour OSJ on a segway.

TOUR GUIDES
The following guides get excellent reviews on the discussion boards.  They both offer a wide variety of tours:

Albert Aguirre – contact at surfcabs@yahoo.com or (787) 317-6907. To get the $50 pp rate, Albert requires a minimum of 6 people. If you don’t have that number, he will approach other cruise passengers until he gets additional passengers for his tour.

Countryside Tours (Victor Balbin) - http://www.countrysidetourspr.com/

Experience the history and culture of this beautiful island!!